Grillers are in a season of obstacles and may have a hard time fulfilling our need for the taste that can only come from an open flame. If it seems like you are just about to make reservations at your favorite restaurant for that open-flame taste, think a little closer to home.

The fireplace was the center to preparing many of the meals in times past. With a little imagination, your fireplace or wood-burning stove can become the place to prepare your favorite grilled items, not to mention a good way to heat your home while cutting down on natural gas costs.

When I was younger, this is how my dad would grill during winter. I have to give him credit with teaching me this method that we continue today.

Before I go into detail on how to grill in your fireplace or wood-burning stove, I have a few words of caution. If you burn wood pellets or gas only in your fireplace or stove, do not attempt to grill using this method. Those appliances may not have the correct ventilation to cook in, and they may not be safe for any fat that will burn off the meat during the grilling process.

The only fireplaces or wood-burning stoves that should be used are the ones that burn only wood. Charcoal briquettes should not be used because they are for outside grilling and need to be used in ventilated areas. I also advise that you do not grill items that are very thick, such as tri tip, or items that have bones, such as bone-in chicken or ribs. The heat generated from your indoor fire will be too hot for these items to cook properly because they can burn easily on the outside before the inside is cooked. Hard woods, such as oak or many fruit or nut woods, are preferred. These woods are better burning and will add a good flavor.

To grill in your fireplace or wood-burning stove, you will need a grilling basket. Grilling baskets come in many different sizes and shapes. The best grilling basket will allow you to adjust for the thickness of the item you are grilling. When placing your food in the grilling basket, make sure the top of the basket is tight enough to secure the food. If the basket cover is too tight, the food will have too much pressure on it and not cook evenly. Make sure the grilling basket fits into your fireplace or wood-burning stove. If you do not have an insulated handle, use an oven mitt while turning the basket to prevent burning your hand.

Start by building your fire. This grilling isn't done over the flaming wood, but over the hot burning coals, so make sure you don't build it too large and that your damper is open. When burned down and spread out, the coals should only be about 2 to 2 1/2 inches high. Since the coals are very hot, this method of grilling will go faster than the typical charcoal or gas method.

While the fire is burning down, prepare the area around your fireplace or wood-burning stove by laying foil or damp newspaper over the carpet, brick or tile near the opening of the fireplace or wood-burning stove. If you are grilling meat, this will prevent damage to the surrounding area from the dripping fat when removing the grilling basket. To test the area you should cover, see how far you need to pull out the grilling basket when turning and protect that area.

When your coals are ready and have been spread out evenly, place a piece of wood on each side of the coals. The wood should be placed wide enough to support the grill basket on each side. When the wood supports the grill basket, the bottom of the basket should be about 5 to 8 inches above the coals. Bricks may be used to, although it may be difficult to remove hot bricks from your fireplace or wood-burning stove.

Grilling in a fireplace or wood-burning stove is a great way to experience the taste of open flame cooking while the storm rages outside. Once you try this method of grilling, you'll want to expand grilling season into your home every winter.

My recipe this week is a family classic using the fireplace or wood-burning stove grilling method. Any appropriate item you would like to grill is acceptable within the parameters that it is not too thick or has large bones. I specifically choose steak because that's what my family always grilled in the fireplace.

Fireplace Steak

From Mitch Mariani

Serves 4

4 sirloin steaks

Granulated garlic powder, salt and pepper to taste

Step 1: Prepare the fireplace and surrounding area as instructed.

Step 2: Shake granulated garlic powder, salt and pepper on both sides of the steak, and place the steaks in the grilling basket.

Step 3: Grill the first side of the steaks for about 6 to 8 minutes depending upon thickness and temperature of the hot coals. Take the grill basket with the steaks out of the fireplace or wood-burning stove, turn it, and return it to the fire for an additional 6 to 8 minutes.

Step 4: When the steaks are done, move the grill basket and steaks directly onto a platter. Remove the steaks from the basket and serve.

Mitch Mariani Mitch L. Mariani II is a self-taught amateur chef. Questions, comments and suggestions can be directed to him via e-mail at mixedgrillsouthvalley@yahoo.com. For tips and recipes, visit www.geocities.com/mixedgrillsouthvalley. His column runs weekly.