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The scent of roasting garlic combined with aromas of braised stuffed quail, sweet pea pesto, smoky garlic-basil pork and grilling garlic citrus herb lamb chops created an aroma that drew a crowd of 600 to this year's large cook-off stage Saturday morning.

"We had to open early - so many people were lined up at the gate," said Ed Struzik, the 2008 Garlic Festival president.

The pungent cook-off competition featured eight amateur chefs who were judged by six professional chefs.

Cheers and shouts of surprise erupted from the audience when it was announced that Laurie Benda from Madison, Wisc., took first prize for her walnut-garlic tart with garlic-infused cream and chili syrup.

"Desserts never win!" one onlooker yelled in excitement. Benda's garlic-filled tart was the first ever dessert recipe to win top honors. After being crowned with garlic and accepting the first place prize of $1,000, she said, "I'm thrilled - I completely didn't expect it at all! It's my first time here, and my first time entering the cook-off - it was great!"

The eight contestants, culled from more than 400 submitted photos, were given two hours to prepare their recipe on stage. Master of Ceremonies was Laura McIntosh, host, producer and director of the cooking show, "Bringing It Home with Laura McIntosh," which airs on various stations throughout California and on the PBS series "California Heartland."

The judges looked for ease of preparation, flavor and sensuality of texture ("mouth feel"), presentation, creativity and originality, appearance and fragrance and the use of at least six cloves of fresh garlic or the equivalent in packaged form (3 teaspoons chopped or minced). No one working professionally in food preparation was allowed to enter the contest, and the recipe had to be fully prepared, plated and ready for presentation to the judges in two hours or less.

The first chef to finish was Michael Cohen of Los Angeles, who created Monterey duck spring rolls with avocado-garlic crème fraiche (French for "fresh cream").

"I used ground duck, celery root, carrot, Napa cabbage, Muscat wine, garlic - of course - and then avocado to make the crème fraiche," he said. When Master of Ceremonies Laura McIntosh asked Cohen what his inspiration was, Cohen got a hearty laugh from spectators by answering, "Good eatin'!"

Other contestants competing were Renata Stanko of Lebanon, Ore.; Linda Wang of Sunnyvale; Mary Shivers of Ada, Okla.; Boni Passmore of Antelope; Renee Pokorny of Ventura; and Benda.

The contestant who traveled the farthest was Candace McMenamin of Lexington, South Carolina.

"I learned about the Great Garlic Cook-off several years ago through the Food Network on TV," she said. "I use quail and garlic," she described her recipe. "It has a stuffing with goat cheese and it can be a knife and fork appetizer or a main dish. I tried a lot of things; I tried it with chicken, beef and just decided to go with the quail." Her mother Rita came all the way from South Carolina to cheer her on. "She taught me everything I know," McMenamin said.

It's not easy to come to a new place, to cook on a stove you've never used before, to bring and prepare all your own ingredients, to be expected to perform at your best when out of your element, and to cook without being able to reach for that handy tool you're used to grabbing in your own kitchen, not to mention being watched by a panel of judges, a live audience, and numerous camera crews.

As if that weren't enough, "We just got word that we are being Web-cammed," McIntosh announced as a buzz of excitement moved through the crowd. "We're being watched - on the BBC!"

Spectator Ann Costa first came to the festival from southern California with her husband on their 30th wedding anniversary 24 years ago.

"I've been coming ever since," she said. "My husband's gone now, but I still come. It's a tradition. I drive up by myself on Wednesday and stay until Monday. I'm Italian and I love garlic, put it that way!"

At the close of the cook-off, the winner of this year's third place $500 prize was return contestant Pokorny, who also won third place in 2004.

The winner of the second place $750 prize was Wang, for her unusual Garlic Corn Crème Brulee with Pan-Seared Scallops and Garlic Pancetta Saute. Her inspiration came from the festival's garlic ice cream.

"I've enjoyed being with you," Master of Ceremonies Laura McIntosh said at the close of the competition, and it seemed the crowd felt the same as they made their way out from the cook-off stage area to enjoy the rest of the festival. Many of them had brand new 2008 Great Garlic Cook-off cookbooks in hand, ready to go try making Smoky Garlic-Basil Pork or Garlic Infused Extra Virgin Olive Oil Poached Sockeye Salmon with Lemon Garmalade for themselves.

Copies of the 2008 Great Garlic Cook-Off cookbook may be purchased for $8.00; call (408) 842-1625 or contact the Gilroy Garlic Festival Association Web site at www.gilroygarlicfestival.com.

Kat Teraji Kat Teraji is communications coordinator for a large nonprofit that benefits women and children. Her column appears every Friday. You can reach her at kattoy@verizon.net.